View Full Version : New Project...
volospian
11-11-2010, 14:08
Had this for a few weeks now, but no extra pics yet as I keep forgetting to upload them to my hosting site so I've posted a link to the original pic.... anyway...
http://i.ebayimg.com/23/!B4rP!RQCGk~$(KGrHqIOKk!EyPSml3ZlBMqy)zc4SQ~~_12.J PG
1970 Reliant Scimitar GTE.
Needs a hell of a lot of work (but was bought as a project for £265, so that's what I'd expect).
Work done so far...
Interior pretty much stripped out... that's about it so far...
I'm aiming for a full "body off" resto here, so most things are going to be replaced with new. I have a 3.5 Rover V8 in the garage to replace the knackered Essex 3.0 V6 (for the time being). It'll be seperated from the chassis soon, hopefully within the next couple of weeks, and I'll start work on the chassis. It'll need new outriggers at the very least. Hopefully there's enough there to sort what I have and not need to source a replacement chassis, but it's difficult to tell until the body is off.
The body needs some attention too, so that's going to be stripped back and repaired, plus some minor modifications, before being resprayed.
Then new interior, electrics and so on.... might have a working car in a year or two... lol :)
I am looking to do the same to a 1968 Kaiser Jeepster Commando. I've always liked the body style and I've always wanted a vehicle as old as me.
I'll be watching this "build thread" to see how it goes for you. Good luck with it!
Oh excellent, I shall be keeping on eye on this thread.
I like to think that if I had the time and space for it, I'd have a project vehicle too.
Great stuff. We need more unloved ****e on here.
Take note readers: go buy projects!
volospian
12-11-2010, 10:08
lol, I'll have to get into the habit of taking pictures. I've taken a couple of the interior as it is at the moment, but didn't think to take one of the interior before I started... doh!
However, I have the original sellers pics taken off the auction site, so when I get 5 minutes, I'll update this with pics of "before" and "now".
This is, in reality, a "trial run". After having my beloved Cerbera written off a couple of years ago I yearn for another. However, the AJP8 engine is a bit of a nightmare for parts and costs are astronimical so I want to do what a few others have done and go for LSx power.
So, at some stage I'm intending to buy an early Cerb (hopefully with a knackered AJP8 engine to keep the costs down) and do a full body off resto on that, so I thought I'd hone the skills I need on something a little cheaper (a Cerb with a b0rked engine will still set me back several thousand for starters), but this will use, essentially, the same skills. Renovating a fibreglass body on a steel chassis and throwing in an engine swap at the same time.
I don't know what either of those acronyms mean but the fact that they have 8 in the title probably means they have 8 cylinders. A Good Thing.
The Range Rover 4.2 is a good engine. Now the ECU can be reprogrammed so it'll work off the original car it means a healthy powered all-aluminium V8 is available at sensible money.
volospian
13-11-2010, 10:45
The AJP8 is the TVR designed and built V8 that went into the Cerbera in 2 sizes, 4.2 and 4.5 litre. It's a good engine, in some respects. Very small, very light, with a high output (around 360hp for the 4.2, around 400ish for the 4.5). It's apparently designed around 8 cylinders of a V10 F1 engine. Looked after properly, it can make 100,000 miles before needing a rebuild, but as most original TVR owners seemed to be idiots who bought a "supercar" then refused to service it properly, a lot don't make it past 30,000.
However, the main problem is one of supply and demand. There is little supply since TVR went to the wall, and little demand as the AJP8 was only fitted to some of the cerbs, and some of the Tuscan racers, I think. There were less than 2000 cerbs made, so there are very few AJP8 engines in existance.
The camshafts are rifle bored and made of solid billet EN40B steel and are hugely expensive. I think they were around £800 each when I bought some...The maintenance is difficult for the home DIYer as the lifters are all solid and the tolerance needs to be set every 6k at least, which is about a half day job as everything needs to come out so the lifters can be shimmed. Get it wrong and the cam and lifters wear out and you are delving into your pockets again withina couple of thousand miles. It's just a ballache of an engine.
By LSx I meant something like an LS1, 2 or 3 (or whatever) from Chevrolet. I know the RV8 can make a decent engine, but to hit over 360hp it starts to get expensive, and the money spent on that can buy you a standard LS3 putting out around 400 for starters...
Great stuff. We need more unloved ****e on here.
Take note readers: go buy projects!
I have a project in the wings, albeit a modern one :'(
By LSx I meant something like an LS1, 2 or 3 (or whatever) from Chevrolet. I know the RV8 can make a decent engine, but to hit over 360hp it starts to get expensive, and the money spent on that can buy you a standard LS3 putting out around 400 for starters...
LSx goodness....cant see the need to play with the Rover anymore (well in the performance stakes anyway) Mine cost a silly amount, which I could have hit by dropping an american lump in straight away
Looking forward to seeing progress on this ;)
Flibster
14-11-2010, 15:16
I love the old Scimitar. There's something about it that tickles me - just like the old Lotus Europas shape does.
Great stuff. We need more unloved ****e on here.
I'm still here! ;)
My projects are on hold until I can get a job... Currently looking a 15k/year jobs... But doing something that I enjoy instead.
volospian
14-11-2010, 19:21
LSx goodness....cant see the need to play with the Rover anymore (well in the performance stakes anyway) Mine cost a silly amount, which I could have hit by dropping an american lump in straight away
Looking forward to seeing progress on this ;)
Totally agree. I already have the 3.5 to go in the scim, and once that's on the road I'll start on the Trev, and that will have LSx power. Although, as you know, I still have plans for the scim...... lol.
Trev = TVR.
The name TVR comes from the first name of the guy that started the company = Trevor Wilkinson.
Not sure if this is a Scim but it's food for thought nonetheless :)
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/7921/iain4.jpg
volospian
20-11-2010, 21:16
Yes it is, and I *think* the guy wo owns it is based near Coalville, which is about 15 mins away from where I live. At least I'm sure I've seen one that looks very similar to that, that is based in Coalville.
You may also find this interesting, the Scim was designed by the same guy who designed the Bond Bug, and the Raleigh Chopper, Mr Tom Karen.
You'd better get all over it. I expect yours to be looking similar in a few weeks ;D
volospian
22-11-2010, 09:10
lol, not quite what I have in mind for this one...
volospian
15-12-2010, 09:44
Well, having to strip the car on the drive and the snow has meant a lack of progress on the vehicle itself. The interior is pretty much stripped out, only a few items of trim to remove and some old carpet. Then I can remove all the bright(dull)work, handles, lights, etc. on the body itself, remove the doors and windows and look to getting the body off the chassis.
Anyway, none of that will happen until after Christmas now, so I have spent the time planning various bits. I've been trying to finally decide on the V8 build. I've settled on 9.35 compression pistons, and I'll get the heads flowed, and skimmed to raise the CR a bit. I think I'm going to retain the standard plenum inlet. I was considering 8 ITB's but I'm not convinced it will really gain me anything on an otherwise pretty stock setup. I'm not actually after a full bore race engine, just a decent output. 200 or so should be enough.
I've now found a wiring diagram and I'm going to copy that out into some software so it's a bit clearer, then I can design the wiring for all the extras that I'm intending to fit (nothing special, heated seats, a few more interior lights, decent stereo, converting stuff to relays, etc.) and I am intending to make those looms as modular as possible, so any owner after me can strip out stuff they don't want if they are after an original look.
I'm going to try soda blasting the body (and probably blast the chassis too) to get down to the gel coat. Failing that it will be months on the sander. Either way my existing 24litre compressor won't be up to the job (it can't run my existing orbital sander for longer than a few seconds, really) so I have recently aquired something with a touch more oomph... a 200 litre beast with a 5.5 hp petrol engine so I don't need to worry about electricity. I've also added an air driven ratchett and angle grinder to the sander and spray stuff I already have.
I haven't picked the compressor up yet, it wouldn't fit in the A Class, was about 1" too tall to get in there (and it's the wifes car... oily and torn headlining is not conducive to a harmonious relationship!) so I'm going back to get it on Saturday. I'll take some pics of it next to the car so you can get an idea of the size, lol.
I was considering 8 ITB's but I'm not convinced it will really gain me anything on an otherwise pretty stock setup.
It may not give much in terms of performance but it'd look pretty special.
volospian
15-12-2010, 13:27
It may not give much in terms of performance but it'd look pretty special.
lol, I know, but then it'd be lost beneath the air filters, so it would only look good for photo opportunities...
Although, I don't suppose these look bad...
http://www.twminduction.com/Filter/Filter.imgs/Filterjc72.gif
Although, I don't suppose these look bad...
Personally....I wouldnt bother, if this is for the std/warm build it will be total overkill.......unless you can also use these on the hot engine - but then I think that will be better with injection (if I remember what you want to do with it)
volospian
17-12-2010, 13:11
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. It'll look cool, but be a total waste of time for the build I'm aiming for. The hot engine will be blown and injected, so I probably wont benefit from ITB's then either.
blown
I'm liking this project even more!
And no, I'm not trying to be dirty. For once.
volospian
17-12-2010, 13:22
I'm liking this project even more!
And no, I'm not trying to be dirty. For once.
lol, that's not technically this project... it's sort of "this project MkII"
Justsomebloke
17-12-2010, 13:31
Got a nice one of these round the corner from me looks & sounds great, I've always liked them. :cool:
What do the weigh ?
volospian
17-12-2010, 14:48
Just over a tonne, about 1100kg. Mine will have some heavier stuff inside (heated leather seats, a few more speakers and stuff) but will have the lighter VR8 engine, so it should still be somewhere around that weight. I'm aiming for around 200hp in this build.
volospian
18-12-2010, 17:08
Just picked up the Compressor. It's pretty big, lol. I'll take some pics when I've thawed out properly. It took 7.5 hours to get from Ashby to Thornbury and back, a trip that should have taken about 4 hours tops... 2 hours to get there, and 5.5 hours to get back
Justsomebloke
20-12-2010, 14:08
This is Always the way, You never see a certain car then somebody gets one & all the others pop up in front of you.
My mate Jim with the Recovery Car/Van hire business rang me yesterday, Guess what i got on the back Malc ? A Reliant Scimitar. (He always rings me when he has something different about)
Don't suppose you need another one but if you do shout me, Apparently it's a barn find so totally original but in need of a complete restore. Prob no good for you but i had to mention it.
volospian
22-12-2010, 10:14
What model is it? Got any pics?
I don't think there's anything specific that I need, as mine is having an entire re-trim anyway, but you could always punt it on the Scimweb forums...
http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/
volospian
24-12-2010, 12:08
Anybody recommend any good solvent? I need something to help get the carpets and sound deadening material out. I can rip the most part out, but it's leaving the car with a straggly beard like a jihad bomber...
Del Lardo
24-12-2010, 16:38
My Dad has one many moons ago until 2 weeks after he got married when it was replaced with a Volvo 740 estate ;D
Now is the best time to get the sound deadening out. It will be hard and chip off through the cold. A screwdriver and a swear jar is the best method I found. If you wait till it is warmer it will be a guey mess and be even more of a PITA to remove.
volospian
05-01-2011, 14:15
Hmmm.... I was hoping there would be another way, lol. Oh well, it keeps me out of mischief, I suppose :D
volospian
12-01-2011, 09:54
Right, I really need to get some pics sorted this weekend, so prepare for a pic fest next week...
Anyway, I've had alook at the compressor now. It needs a new drain plug as the existing one is all chewed up. It still works, but it's a PITA to open. It also needs at least a new reducing bush from where Simon grabbed the connector while lifting it out of the landy and it snapped off at the reducer. I think I'll probably just replace the connectors with ones that are the correct size for the outlet, as I think one has a slight leak somewhere and they're not much to buy new.
I've had it running, and it's OK, if a little loud, but then I knew that as I heard it running before I paid for it. Anyway, the neighbours are all fine with a bit of noise now and again.
I've now bought a ratchet and a grinder to go with it. The ratchet is a secondhand one, while the grinder is a brand new cheapo one, both from a certain popular on-line auction site.
Not much work on the car with the snow and Christmas and so on, but I have been working on supply... My next door neighbour is a CDT teacher and he's just starting to set up a metalworking business. It's all out of his garage at the moment, but he's slowly aquiring a lot of kit. I helped him lug a seriously industrial sheet metal folder into the garage the other day, and he's buying a TIG and a Plasma Cutter soon. Anyway, he's offered to make pretty much anything I need, if he can.
I won't need too much, as the body is mainly fibreglass, but it has reinforcing metal parts here and there (door hanging points springs to mind) so I can get him to make new ones of those up, and he's already offered to make some new sill plates in stainless, with a logo of my choice etched in, as payment for the heavy lifting :)
So, it's all looking good so far... :D
Having a plasma cutter next door will be very handy indeed. Custom parts aplenty :)
volospian
16-01-2011, 17:01
I had just pulled the old rad out, hence the pool of water near the tyre...
http://www.volospian.net/scim1.jpg
Various views of the interior, just a couple of pieces of trim to strip, and some carpet down the centre, then cleaning it all up...
http://www.volospian.net/scim2.jpg
http://www.volospian.net/scim3.jpg
http://www.volospian.net/scim4.jpg
http://www.volospian.net/scim5.jpg
The Compressor.... (sorry about the ****e pic, phone cam :()
http://www.volospian.net/comp2.jpg
I have leant a standard hammer up against it, to give some perspective :D
http://www.volospian.net/comp1.jpg
Hold on, is that a petrol powered compressor? BEAST :shocked:
volospian
16-01-2011, 21:43
lol, yes, it's a serious piece of kit:evil:
Correct use of lowering and wheels. Make sure this happens.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff22/kevfromwales/scimitar/3470958585_487713538b.jpg
volospian
06-02-2011, 22:14
That's nice, I think I'm going to dump the bumpers on mine too, although I want to fettle the back end a bit to smoth it off. I don't think there is any option on wheels... slot mags are almost compulsory!
volospian
23-03-2011, 16:45
Quick update...
After a weekend spent working on tidying the garage, I have now built a new fold away bench to do some trimming on, and put up some shelves. There's loads of room in the garage now and I can hopefully actually get to my tools to continue withthe car.
I'm taking the bottom end of the RV8 over to Paul (Prestige Performance Cars, Melton) on Friday for him to put it together for me. While I can do up a few bolts, I'm not convinced the crank is in top condition and I want the opinion of an expert. Also, as I want this to be my daily drive when it's complete, I want the bottom end rebuild to be done properly, so I decided to let a pro build it up for me.
Saturday should see me finish most of the stripping down and hopefully get myself ready to whip the old engine out (just need a crane) and then I can get the body off the chassis....
volospian
26-03-2011, 17:50
Doors off, windows out, wiper boxes off, rear bumper removed.... getting there....
Dont forget to keep us updated with more pics! :D
volospian
29-03-2011, 08:06
I've got some on my phone, I just need to upload them to my host and link... I'll get around to it at some stage... lol
volospian
04-04-2011, 08:20
Bit more stripping on Sunday morning. Started on the engine bay, got the servo and master cylinders out, old fuse boxes, header tank and so on. Doesn't sound much but 40 year old bolts through the inner wing into the wheel arch can be a tad stubborn.
I need more dremmel cutting discs now :(
I didn't take any pics as there's not much obvious difference from the windowless pics, which I shall upload when I get 5 mins (although if you're that impatient, you can see them on FB here (http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2113363&id=1387456660&l=a9fa9751cc ))
volospian
31-07-2011, 21:25
OK, a quick update... Not much to report, per se, but there are only 5 bolts holding the body onto the chassis now (out of over 30-odd, almost all needing to be cut out with the grinder) and they would have been sorted this weekend, only I can't get to the last bolts with the big grinder... I need some new dremmel grinding disks to sort these last buggers. Anyway, I have been scraping away at the crap in the car itself... almost clear. Next job is to sort the last 5 bolts and seperate the body. Then it'll be sorting the chassis out before I move onto the bodywork....
Some pics of the (almost) clean interior...
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/197721_2280477736565_1387456660_32662030_6277113_n .jpg
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281351_2280476616537_1387456660_32662028_6485401_n .jpg
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/281889_2280477296554_1387456660_32662029_440070_n. jpg
Just the thought of trying to do that to my old Willys makes me want to curl up in the fetal position and whimper like a 3 week old puppy.
Too bad it needs that and more.
volospian
08-08-2011, 08:40
lol, you should see the state of the chassis. There are enough fixes required to the bodywork (you can see two holes at the bottom of the B posts in the top pic, for a start) but where there is actually any chassis left it is largely comprised of iron oxide... I'm hoping that the central rails are OK, and it's just the peripherals like the outriggers and some of the bracing that is kapput.
I think that, after I've taken the body off, stripped the chassis and had it sandblasted, what remains will have more pinholes than Kurt Cobain, lol.
volospian
11-08-2011, 19:07
I'll soon get to find out the actual state of the chassis as I finally cut out the last few bolts today. I gave it a tug and it feels totally loose now. Just need to sort out exactly how I'm going to sepearte the two parts...
I'd be thinking of lifting the body with an engine crane and straps through the windows (assuming it's not going to damage the frames, you'll know the weight of the body better than I do), then wheel the chassis out from underneath. I've used my 2T crane to lift an MR2 shell for loading onto a trailer before.
volospian
17-08-2011, 08:24
Yeah, that's the basic idea. I need to find out where's best to support the rear end, and which part of the car is best to lift from. I'm not convinced about lifting via the windows. It's a heavy old body. I can lift it myself a bit from the front light recesses, so I may look at a frame of some description to lift it from the front. Then I'll rest it on a trestle running through the front wheel arches area while I shift the crane from the front and roll the chassis out... I think...
As for lifting points, take the doors off the hinges and lift from the hinges.
Either that or take the wheels off and strap around the hubs with a spreader bar to keep the straps off the fenders.
volospian
22-08-2011, 08:26
Lifting from the hinges may work...
Can't lift from the hubs as I need the body to come away from the chassis...
Yup, definitely lift from the hinges. Run a 3rd lifting strap to the boot latch or the bonnet latch (whichever would be on the heavier end).
All of those points would be able to support the full weight of the body all by themselves, let alone distributed between three of them.
volospian
03-09-2011, 17:34
Well, brute force and ignorance is always the way forward. I hassled a couple of mates to lend some muscle and we just lifted the damn thing off with the aid of a few piece of wood, some old scaffold pipe and some axle stands.
Hmmm, the front lifts up...
http://www.volospian.net/1.jpg
Don't try this at home....
http://www.volospian.net/2.jpg
http://www.volospian.net/3.jpg
It's steel, Jim, but not as we know it...
http://www.volospian.net/4.jpg
Job well done, now, where's the beer?
http://www.volospian.net/5.jpg
The question now is... how much is salvagable and how much needs replacing. You can probably see the gaping holes in the front outriggers, and the fact that the passenger side outrigger has actually snapped in two. I'm aiming to strip the suspension off in a week or two and then get the chassis blasted, to see just how knackered it actually is.
Justsomebloke
04-09-2011, 08:55
That's superb mate, Tell me you are painting it Bright Red when it's finished ;)
volospian
11-09-2011, 19:50
Just bought a spare chassis from a well known auction site. It also needs work, but not as much as mine does....
volospian
27-10-2011, 16:58
A few more updates...
After having a closer look at the chassis, it seems the rot is terminal...
http://www.volospian.net/rot1.jpg
Good job I bought a replacement chassis then...
http://www.volospian.net/chas.jpg
So, it's time to start taking things off. The gearbox came off pretty easily...
http://www.volospian.net/gbox.jpg
The rear axle was a bit harder, but came off after a long struggle...
http://www.volospian.net/diff.jpg
Leaving the old chassis looking a little like this...
http://www.volospian.net/back1.jpg
Just need to remove the front suspension parts now and I can pretty much scrap what's left...
http://www.volospian.net/front1.jpg
volospian
16-12-2011, 09:11
Quick update, no pics...
The old chassis has now been stripped of useful parts and lies folornly on the drive like the stripped carcass of a dead animal. I just need to sort out how the hell to get it all to the scrappy. I need to dump the old oil from the sump, but my old oil can is full and the local tip is still closed for refitting (should have been open a month ago. But then it's a government project, so it'll probably run on for another 2 years and then be scrapped altogether at a cost of eleventy billion pounds).
The new chassis went off to the blasting company yesterday. They took a door with them to see how well the 40+ year old gel coat will stand soda blasting. If all is good, I'll have them strip the body back for me in the new year.
Now comes the expensive part of rebuilding everything with new bits. I've got a set of front wheel bearings and some top ball joints already, but I want new brake discs and calipers (or I may send the old calipers to Bigg Red for refurb... or I may buy a wilwood kit... not sure which I'd prefer atm) new trunnions (old ones siezed solid), new bushes (old ones buggered beyond belief), new top fulcrums (old ones rusty and so worn they look like sausages rather than hinges) and, of course, new shocks and springs.. oh, and new drop links and brake hoses.... and probably other stuff too...
And that's just the front suspension parts... lol. I have the diff to be refurbed yet, although that's fairly simple to refit once it has been sorted. A set of bushes for the trailing arms and watts link, new shocks and springs and some new bolts should do that, then it's fitting the RV8 and 'box and on to the body...
I'd take a 9" to the chassis. Chop it up into bits that will fit in the boot and go and weigh it in.
volospian
20-12-2011, 10:16
I'd take a 9" to the chassis. Chop it up into bits that will fit in the boot and go and weigh it in.
Yeah, it's not the chassis per se that's the problem. It's so rotten that I could cut most of it up with a breadknife, lol.
It's just the engine, as it's still full of oil and crap and our local tip is closed for a staggering £25 million refurbishment (spent, of course, so that they can increase their recycling ability, although I wonder how many years it will be before it pays for itself...) so I have a garage full of oil that I need to dump before I can drain the engine. Then I need to rip it apart before I can lift the damn thing as it's made of pig iron and lead by the feel of it.
Anyway, when I get the time I'll sort it out...
volospian
05-03-2012, 10:00
Another update... again, no pics as there's not really much to take pics of...
With a combination of cleaned and painted old parts, and a healthy dose of new parts, I am now just about to rebuild one side of the front suspension... apart from the brakes. It's been slow going as the wishbones and uprights all need years of rust and crap taking off, then a few layers of paint going on top, and it's been bloody freezing in the garage. I've bought new top ball joints and complete new trunnions. The old ball joints were a bit worse for wear, and the trunnions had siezed solid. I couldn't be bothered to waste time removing the siezed bolts, cludgy grease and general muck just to discover that the inner threads were worn and they were useless anyway. I've seen what happens when a trunnion gives up, so new ones seemed a much better option.
I've also had to buy new top fulcrums as the old ones were rusted and worn away so that the pins were about half the diameter they should be in places. The Scimitar suppliers wanted a lot of money for new fuclrums, but the front suspension is largely TR6. I asked a few people on the Scimitar forums if the fulcrums were TR6 parts, or particular to the scimitar, and all the response I got was "ring x to ask about the latest price" which didn't help, so I risked buying TR6 parts. They are indeed correct, so I saved myself about half the cost.
I do sometimes feel the the scim forums are run by people with a vested interest in the suppliers, as the members do seem so reluctant to talk about parts sourcing and are often less than helpful, often just suggesting you contact the suppliers to ask technical questions. That's all well and good if you genuinely don't know, but these are supposed to be forums for owners and enthusiasts. The TVR and Triumph forums are much more helpful, and I've found more technical knowledge about Scims on the V8 Owners Forums. :(
I've also aquired a decent 5 speed LT77 and bell housing off an SD1 (bought off eBay, but the seller is one of the guys off the V8 Owners Forum, so I'm happy with the provenance) to bolt up to the RV8 going in the front, so that's most of the drivetrain sorted. I just need to sort out the prop shaft when everything else is in place.
My wonderfully understanding wife has also bought me a MIG welder for my birthday, so I should be able to crack on with a couple of little chassis repairs and a few other minor jobs that need welding up. I just need gas and, of course, to overcome the minor inconvenience of never having wleded before. Luckily my next door neighbour is a CDT teacher, and he's going to give me lessons on wednesday nights. lol, my own private welding course!
The old chassis and engine is now somewhere in the steel recycling process having finally been cut up sent to the scrappy, so now the wife also has somewhere to park her car again.
When I'm actually rebuilding the suspension I'll put some pics up, probably some time in a couple of weeks.
I also have a decision to make... My original plan was to rebuild this car to be a daily classic drive. As such I had planned on leather interior, with heated front seats, a stereo, sat nav, wood, nice sound proofing, alcantara trim and so on. However, then I saw this (http://www.sammio-spyder.com/sammioG46.html).
While I'm not enamoured to much with the prototype pictured, the spyder and some of the others look great. I'm sure that I could get some mods made (like round arches instead of the odd angled ones in the pics, and so on). There's a guy building one here (http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3211). If I went this route, it would be cheaper, a bit quicker (as I wouldn't have to spend so much time sanding the old body back, repairing the gelcoat and so on) and I would end up with a V8 powered, fairly unique fair weather motor looking something a bit like this (although the headlights are faired in on the G46, but they do seem to be a small "built to order" company, and seem happy to discuss options)...
http://www.sammio-spyder.com/images/DSCF0133.jpg
What do you think?
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