View Full Version : Water Cooling Shopping List
Admiral Huddy
04-03-2008, 16:05
Here's what I have so far
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/hardhuddy/Misc%202008/watercoolinglist1.jpg
Is there anything else I need?
I'm a little unsure what it means by the barb size and the compatibility of the tube sizes. Both the pump is 3/8" but I'm not sure about everything else?
Water solution?
All comments are welcome:
You will need something to stop algae from growing in your reservoir and you will need to use deionised water to minimise galvanic corrosion. Some fans for the radiator might be a good idea too!
No idea about the brand of pump and/or what comes with it. Eheim or Hydor used to be the brands to trust. I also had a device that connected to a molex connector inside the PC so that the pump turned on and off with the PC power and the power to the pump was a t-piece connector that sat inline with the PC's power cable so that you couldnt turn one on without the other.
Is this your first watercooling setup? I will post you some tips if it is :)
Admiral Huddy
04-03-2008, 17:26
Certainly is.. I'm going to be installling this on to an test PC first, then once i'm happy, i'll transfer to main PC.
Dymetrie
04-03-2008, 17:35
So what are the benefits of watercooling?
Other than obviously being better at cooling and so enabling you to run at lower temps/run at higher speed at the same temps?
Is it significantly quieter? For example.
Not being interested in overclocking, but definitely being interested in making my poota quieter, then if I could afford it would you advise it?
*NB: My brother was asking me about water cooling for his mediacentre PC which keeps overheating*
Admiral Huddy
04-03-2008, 17:41
@ 3.4GHz things are rather toasty and noisy. Need to bring both temps and noise down a tad and possibly get to 3.8Ghz
If his MM PC is overheating, there maybe a problem. So it might be just a case of reseating the fan or replacing.
Dymetrie
04-03-2008, 17:44
@ 3.4GHz things are rather toasty and noisy. Need to bring both temps and noise down a tad and possibly get to 3.8Ghz
If his MM PC is overheating, there maybe a problem. So it might be just a case of reseating the fan or replacing.
Cleaned up the entire thing before getting it running, along with reseating the heatsink (along with thermal paste) and making sure the airflow was working properly...
Was an old shuttle I got off someone here...
Could be where it is and possibly the fan, so will look into that first.
This is a braindump and I could add to this but it should help.
Ok, first thing is you will want some fan controllers. Main reason being you won't need to run the fans at 100% all the time. Also buy good fans, my Nexus 120mm ones cost 10-12 each and are worth every penny.
Get a ruler out and measure the size of the 120.2. Where are you going to mount it? Also think about the case layout as you'll be surprised at the amount of room it takes up.
Ek CPU waterblock - I have one and i'm not impressed. Its not on the recommended list on XS. Its a very very high restriction block ie your pump will work very hard and make a racket. Ideally you want a low restriction block just for an increased flow rate. I think Dangerden do an RBX block for 775 cpu's. If I had the choice I would get one, the difference would be 2-3c at most.
Get a backplate for your 775 board at EKwaterblocks.com. Also get the other blocks from there (Slovenia).
GFX waterblock - EK waterblocks are good here, low restriction and are a better design than the dangerdens. Are you going to cool the gfx card? Personally I would as they make the most racket of anything in your case. If so your 120.2 is not going to cut it.
Lose the fancy pants tubing, are you going to put neon lights in your case and bask in the Uber leetness? If not get some bog standard stuff. I've used cheapy and Tygon 1/2" hoses. The Tygon is stiffer but its not enough over the standard stuff to warrant the extra cost.
None of the above kit comes with barbs, you need to add your own. Also get some worm clamps from B&Q to clamp the hoses to the barbs. Some people use spring clips, I prefer the security knowing its on their damn tight.
-------------------
Infact have a read here
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/
Go through the watercooling stickies and read the posts. This is where I started many moons ago. The info there is excellent
http://www.boomspeed.com/bofh1968/boatdrinks/mopbucket.jpg
:evil:;D:D
Admiral Huddy
05-03-2008, 10:40
lol @ Darrin.
Ok, stupid question, what are the barbs. On the website there's a drop down list for this,
I was thinking of the D tek Fuzion but I've read that they require dismantling and cleaning before fitting?
Admiral Huddy
05-03-2008, 11:03
Thanks Zirax..
I've hredone the list with links.. Have a look, see what you think.
CPU block Choices:
D-Tek Fuzion (http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27_28&products_id=603)This asks about the barb size?
or
DangerDen MC TDX (http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27_28&products_id=727) - Again asks about the barb size?
GFX Block
EK-FC8800 8800GTX/Ultra (http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27_78&products_id=427)
Radiator:
Thermochil 120.2 (http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=722{1}4) - as above
This fit nicely in my tank :D
Fans
Couldn't find the Nexus, but the Scythes are pretty good:
2 x Scythe S-FLEX 1200RPM Ultra Quiet 120mm Fan - 3/4 pin (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-004-SY&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=4)
Pump
12v Laing DDC1 Ultra 18w (http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=473)
Reservoir
Laing DDC Top/w Reservoir (XSPC) (http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=802{1}4{27}155{26}148 ) - Barb size??
Tubing
3m of 3/8" Clearflex 60 Hose
(http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=742{4}10)
Coolent
Feser One Cooling Fluid - UV BLUE (http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34_96&products_id=437)
Clips from B&Q
No what barb sizes do I need?
Is the above ok?
Anything I've missed?
I would put the Fuzion over the TDX.
I am still wary about the amount of heat that is going to be dumped in the loop by the cpu and gfx and only having a 120.2 This will limit your overclock.
Coolant wise, I use Halfords car antifreeze & de-ionised water. Not really had any issues with this.
Is no-one else concerned that huddy is planning to put water in his computer?
Anyway, the barbs are the fittings that your hoses go onto, you need to decide what size hose you want to use and then make sure all your components have the correct sized barbs to suit.
Admiral Huddy
05-03-2008, 12:03
Are you saying I'll need two pumps for GFX or just a triple rad? I'm thinking about adding the GFX later anyway.
Admiral Huddy
05-03-2008, 12:04
Is no-one else concerned that huddy is planning to put water in his computer?
Anyway, the barbs are the fittings that your hoses go onto, you need to decide what size hose you want to use and then make sure all your components have the correct sized barbs to suit.
I have Essex on stand by - Cheeky monkey!
got ya - Any size recommendations?
Nope, never done water cooling but I'd guess that smaller is easier to work with in terms of routing and making it all fit whereas bigger will allow higher flow rates.
Oh and don't do this:
http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56924
Was the first thing I thought of when I read this thread :p
EDIT - heh, just noticed a familiar face posting in that thread.
If you wanted to cool the gfx as well, people have been doing this one of two ways.
1. Create a seperate loop to cool the gfx card and northbridge, then another for the cpu
2. Have a larger rad, ie 120.3 and have in one loop.
The layout is typically
Pump -> CPU -> GFX -> Rad -> Res -> Pump
If you get the high restriction block, which I think even the Fuzion is (i'll need to check) then you might have to use two pumps in series.
Anything I've missed?
Water? :p
Admiral Huddy
05-03-2008, 15:18
Water? :p
:lipsrsealed:
So how do two loops work?
:lipsrsealed:
So how do two loops work?
Pump -> cpu -> rad 1 -> res -> pump
Pump -> Northbridge -> gfx -> rad 2 -> res -> pump
Two rads, two pumps, two res. Before anyone moans yes you could split just after the res and rejoin just before the rad however you'll still take a performance hit. This setup is done by the uber boys running SLI quadcore going for max performance.
Some will put the whole lot in one loop still
Pump 1 -> Pump 2 -> cpu -> gfx -> rad -> res -> Pump 1
----
The summary is that yes you could use a 120.2 for gfx and cpu. However you will need high cfm fans, which defeats the object of water cooling being quieter. The temps will also be higher.
Bearing in mind that gfx cards and cpu's are only ever going to get hotter, unless you want a 120.2 now and then get a 120.3.
Admiral Huddy
05-03-2008, 15:53
#gulp#
What do you have then?
PA120.3 + fan standoff mount for better cooling
Laing D5 Vario pump
EK CPu waterblock
EK x1900xtx waterblock
Dangerden 5.25" bay res
-----
Old setup
120.3 + extra
DD RBX 939
EK X1900xtx block
Laing D5 vario
DD 5.25" bay res
So you shell out for the rad and pump once really.
Admiral Huddy
05-03-2008, 17:21
but you don't like the EK CPU block?
What barb sizes?
Who noisy is all that lot?
Admiral Huddy
06-03-2008, 11:05
I'm not so sure where this is all going to go now.
http://www.huddysworld.co.uk/Pictures/hardware/PC2.jpg
Notice the lack of space despite its size. The drive bay on the right can't be taken out. However, the rad could be fitted inside if I move the HDD up.
or the roof just in front of the PSU..
I'll send some pics. Short answer is that you are going to have a hell of a job getting it all in there. Time for a bigger case ;)
To answer on the EK block, I brought one on status and recomendation. Got it, and i'm not impressed. Very high restriction. The finish on the block isn't good, bits of metal shavings inside the block, the fact I had to file down the block to get it to fit a motherboard it was supposidly compatable with. The fact that they state you need an X brace. You buy their one and then their own fittings are no longer long enough to fit it. Just sloppy.
That being said, the gfx card blocks seem fine.
Admiral Huddy
06-03-2008, 17:10
I bought that case as I thought it would be bigger enough to house water cooling. You tell how big it it compared to a midi case I had...
http://www.huddysworld.co.uk/Pictures/hardware/oldandnewcase.jpg
LeperousDust
06-03-2008, 17:17
Bahhh boring, i managed watercooling in my shuttle :p
I cheated though rad and pump where outside thanks to the wonderful reserator :)
I'm about to have a crack at watercooling myself, to which end I'm now getting a quote for a Lian-Li V1200+ case with a rad mounted in the top (far too incompetent to cut cases myself). I can manage the rest of it myself although not yet worked out what components I'll be using.
Will be cooling not only the CPU but also the GFX. Despite the CPU running at 4Ghz, it's temps are modest compared to the 85C+ the GFX is chucking out. I want more peace and quiet, as does the gf.
Admiral Huddy
19-03-2008, 12:32
A few questions.. I've been told that the best bar/tubing sizes would be 1/2" and 7/16th respectively. However, the 12V Laing DDC1+ Ultra 18W i was looking at looks like it's only compatible with 3/8" ID Hose?
So is the above suggested sizes really better.. Not much use if I can't get a pump to go with it.
Also, If I'm cooling both the GPU and CPU, could I get away with a single triple rad? I can get that inside the case but I can't get 2x double rads?
LeperousDust
19-03-2008, 16:13
I think 2 rads is overkill, 1 should do just fine, i cooled my CPU abd GPU on my old shuttle with the original zalman reserator without *any* fans! a triple with fans should be more than enough :)
Admiral Huddy
26-03-2008, 13:25
ok, I think I'm all ready.. I need a Drimmel though :D
Admiral Huddy
15-04-2008, 09:41
I've just read Custom PCs water cooling guide.. Pretty good.
Thay have a special offer on this kit:
http://www.watercoolingshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=764
Details:
1x X2O Delta CPU Block V2
1x 8800 GT (G92) Full Cover block
1x RS360 Black Radiator
3x XinRuiLian 1700RPM 120mm Fan
1x Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC
1x Laing 12V DDC1+ Ultra 18W
3m 1/2” ID 1/8” Wall Clear/UV Blue Tubing (1meter)
10x G1/4” To 1/2” Barb
10x 1/2” black plastic hose clip
2x Feserone 1ltr
For £230 even indiviual prices come to around £290
The only problem is the VGA coooler which I don't think will be compatable with the 8800 GTX.
The only query I have is the 10 x G1/4 to 1/2" barbs. What are these used for?
A lot of blocks use 1/4 thread actually into the block. So you would have 1/4" thread going to 1/2" hose on the other side. That cooler won't be as it'll be for G92. The GTX uses the older core.
You would want more tubing, loads more. For the sake of a couple of quid and the anger of running out..... its worth it
This is from a while ago but...
Also buy good fans, my Nexus 120mm ones cost 10-12 each and are worth every penny.
Is that Nexus or Noctua? Both always claim to be darn quiet but the Nexus ones always seem about 1/3 / 1/2 the price?
Watercooling stuff is always quite cool to see installed. A friend went all out and got himself a proper refrigerated case with pump/compressor the works! :eek: The case and bits alone cost near to 500 quid I think... however it is dead quiet - quite eerie actually.
Good luck with it Huddy, look forward to seeing it develop! :)
This is from a while ago but...
Is that Nexus or Noctua? Both always claim to be darn quiet but the Nexus ones always seem about 1/3 / 1/2 the price?
Nexus fans used to be the daddies along with yate loon. I got mine from here
http://www.over-clock.co.uk/acatalog/case_fans.html
Granted they are slightly more noisy but, coupled with a fan controller this can be mitigated. Reason being you can crank them up during a really hot day.
The Noctua do seem more quiet out of the box. However even now I would put any fans on a fan controller, especially when coupled with a good case. On a side note, I just looked at the prices of cases :shocked: They are a bit of a rip off now! Find a Chieftec/Antec Dragon on ebay or better yet a Chieftec full tower and you can mod as much as you want.
Admiral Huddy
16-04-2008, 09:59
the new Scythe fans push out 65cfm on just 1200 RPM at 28db - wow
/geek mode
LeperousDust
16-04-2008, 15:05
Hmmm i've always been very dubious at quoted noise and cfm, hard to measure, and there is only so much the laws of physics provide...
Hmmm, bit a thread hijack here ooops thanks tho :s
Still can't decide between the two, it's far too noisy atm though, something has to change.
A Place of Light
18-04-2008, 00:05
Point one. The only agreed-upon difference between running with or without a res is that with a reservoir the system is a little easier to bleed. There are no thermal advantages to be had by installing one.
Point two. If you want to cool the NB/GPU/CPU, you must decide if you want to cool the lot via one loop or have two seperate loops. Seperate is better, but is a little more costly and needs more room for the installation. If you can fit two rads then it is worth the effort.....but only if you clock the balls off your system.
Tubing? I use clearflex as it's almost as good as Tygon but much cheaper. Tygon can be a pain to use due to it's desired lack of compliance and should you choose cheaper tubing you can buy anti-kink gubbins anyway.
Pumps? While some of the newer kit is smaller and more streamlined, I still prefer my eheim kit. Put simply, it's silent and I fail to see how it can be bettered in anything but the actual dimensions of the pump itself.
Not sure what the current darling of the additives world is, but I always preferred Zerex.
Hope this helps and have fun with the build.
BTW, If your case has a fixed mobo tray can I suggest you dremel out a square of metal underneath the mounting points for the waterblock? This will allow you to remove and refit without having to take out the board every time.
The only problem is the VGA coooler which I don't think will be compatable with the 8800 GTX.
For the GTX you want the EK Full Cover block - it's what I shall be using on my Ultra.
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