kit cars... - Page 2

volospian · 06-01-2013, 12:39

No, I'll use megasquirt or emerald or something...

A Place of Light · 06-01-2013, 22:29

Good choice, going down the LS route.

volospian · 15-01-2013, 10:30

The stock truck inlet manifold won't fit under the bonnet of a Cobra, so I can either fit a silly big scoop, or I can change the inlet manifold to a car version. After a bit of investigation I found someone on the Pistonheads Monaro site that was willing to flog me an LS6 setup (inlet manifold, throttle body, injectors and fuel rails) for £150. As the engine seller wanted extra for the truck inlet I declined his offer and am taking said contact up on his LS6 setup.

The LS6 intake adds around 15hp to a stock LS1, but the truck intake already flows better than a stock LS1 anyway, so I doubt it'll make much real world difference. The general concensus seems to be that I'll sacrifice a little low end torque for a bit more high end HP. Having said that, I've seen dyno runs on an L33 with the LS6 intake and a cam swap (but otherwise stock) putting out over 410hp and over 370lb/ft of torque. I'm only aiming for figures similar to my old Cerbera, so mid 300's hp and early 300's torque, so I should be happy enough.

volospian · 29-01-2013, 10:30

Well, the Kit was ordered a couple of weeks ago, and the deposit has been paid. Ready date is 26th April.

I've sourced most of the parts I need from donors, including the engine, gearbox, brake servo and master cylinder, handbrake assembly, heater and I'm heading off in a hired van to pick up the front and rear axles/suspension on Friday.

I've gone for the "Gen II" kit which enables me to use any suspension from the Gen 2 IRS XJ series, which includes the XJ40, X300 an X308 cars. I've found a breakers who'll sell me the complete subframes from a 3.2 X308. This gives me a diff with a ratio of 3.27:1. Coupled with the gearbox I'm using this will give a theoretical top speed of around 180mph... and the engine should put out enough power to reach that theoretical limit.... theoretically

So, next job is to collect the suspension parts, strip them down, clean them up, rebush, replace anything worn and paint them, ready to attach to the chassis when it turns up...

Well, actually the next job is to sort the garage out so I have room to do all this...

Zirax · 29-01-2013, 22:06

Nice

I would love to do something like this but I would never get the time.

volospian · 30-01-2013, 11:20

I did a quick spot of research and double checking yesterday, mainly getting prices for replacement bearings and ball joints, and it's a good job I did. While Jaguar left the rear end of the X308 alone (well, pretty much, at least they didn't change any of the bits I need) they totally redesigned the front end.

The guys at AK just assumed things were the same, or near enough, across the range, which is fair enough assumption as they have probably not had anybody bother using X308 parts yet as they're rarer than XJ40/X300 parts... but they most certainly are not the same. Different wishbones, uprights, bearings.. it's pretty much all changed.

Anyway, I spoke to the scrappy who said it was no bother to swap the front suspension I was intending to buy with a set off an X300, while still buying the X308 rear end for that nice 3.27:1 diff. No difference in price so I'm a happy bunny.

Still, it's a good job I get excited about these things and started sourcing parts before I bought the goods or I'd never have discovered the difference until I had the parts back in my garage!

Zirax · 30-01-2013, 21:20

Very close call on an expensive mistake there

volospian · 31-01-2013, 09:26

Yeah. I'm a little annoyed at some of the info available for this build. I don't mean the parts list from AK. They state that you need the parts from a certain set of cars. XJ40 suspension, E34 Steering column, Polo MkII heater, Jag XJS handbrake, Rover 25 brake servo/cylinder and so on. The list is not the issue, the issue is "what if I can't find one?" Some of those parts are now passing into either extinction, or classic vehicles in their own right. People don't scrap XJ40's now, they restore them instead... Same with the "classic" 5 series, XJS and even Polo MkII, to some degree. And because of that, parts are silly expensive (well, the heater and servo wasn't too bad, but...). Nobody wants X300 suspension, but XJ40 parts are twice the price.

From doing this work I've discovered that the X300 front end can be used, the back end of anything up to X308 can be used. The polo MkIII looks to have the same heater unit as the MkII, a whole host of rovers use the same servo and so on...

I'm now trying to source an alternative doner for the steering column. The suggested one comes off the E28, E32 or E34 series Beemers (early 5 and 7 series). These are getting pretty rare and I'm struggling to find one at a sensible price. Surely they have been used on later cars, or there is something similar in length, diameter, fittings and splines from someone else that could be used...

I'm thinking of putting together a compatability list that may help other builders source parts cheaper. I've also discovered that the PAS pump from a Rover 25 has been used and gives a good "weight" to the steering (considering the PAS pump that would have come with my engine would have been designed for a truck) also the alternator from a whole range of Rovers is a nice lightweight, compact 85Amp Bosch unit that will be ample for the Cobra and save some space/weight.

Zirax · 31-01-2013, 22:02

Its actually pointing that AK need to do a more modern redesign, especially with that part list. In the 90s yeah you could get parts cheaply! I mean early 5 series with the scene tax?? Come on

volospian · 05-02-2013, 15:53

Yeah, to be fair it's only the steering column that's really hard to get. They do need to consider an alternative though. I have just picked one up for £127 so it's a little more than I wanted to pay, but it's not a bad price.

I now have my axles at home and I'v started stripping them down. As usual I forgot to take pictures of the "before" but I'll take some on the weekend before I do any more. The rear set is stripped down to the component parts, more or less.

The drive shafts are still connected to the hubs at the moment. I'll try and seperate them on the weekend. It may have been slightly easier to try this while it was all still together, but locking the other shaft and the diff nose while trying a hub puller would have been more difficult than holding the shaft in a vice, I think. At least now I can always put the carrier in the vice and whack the end of the shaft with a hammer (or rather a nut on the end of the shaft... I don't want to b0rk the shaft...)

The lower wishbones are siezed into the long support bolts on both sides, so they are soaking in release agent. If that doesn't work I have some de-rust gel to apply and re-soak it all again. They'll come out in the end.

I need some spring compressors to work on the front, but I have removed the calipers and disks. My next big task is to deox the calipers and see what they look like once cleaned up. Oh, and change the diff seals and clean and paint it...

06-01-2013, 22:29	#12
A Place of Light Absinthe Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,247	Good choice, going down the LS route. __________________ I'm not Burnsy, you cretin.

06-01-2013, 12:39	#11
volospian Vodka Martini Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 786	No, I'll use megasquirt or emerald or something...

15-01-2013, 10:30	#13
volospian Vodka Martini Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 786	The stock truck inlet manifold won't fit under the bonnet of a Cobra, so I can either fit a silly big scoop, or I can change the inlet manifold to a car version. After a bit of investigation I found someone on the Pistonheads Monaro site that was willing to flog me an LS6 setup (inlet manifold, throttle body, injectors and fuel rails) for £150. As the engine seller wanted extra for the truck inlet I declined his offer and am taking said contact up on his LS6 setup. The LS6 intake adds around 15hp to a stock LS1, but the truck intake already flows better than a stock LS1 anyway, so I doubt it'll make much real world difference. The general concensus seems to be that I'll sacrifice a little low end torque for a bit more high end HP. Having said that, I've seen dyno runs on an L33 with the LS6 intake and a cam swap (but otherwise stock) putting out over 410hp and over 370lb/ft of torque. I'm only aiming for figures similar to my old Cerbera, so mid 300's hp and early 300's torque, so I should be happy enough.

29-01-2013, 10:30	#14
volospian Vodka Martini Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 786	Well, the Kit was ordered a couple of weeks ago, and the deposit has been paid. Ready date is 26th April. I've sourced most of the parts I need from donors, including the engine, gearbox, brake servo and master cylinder, handbrake assembly, heater and I'm heading off in a hired van to pick up the front and rear axles/suspension on Friday. I've gone for the "Gen II" kit which enables me to use any suspension from the Gen 2 IRS XJ series, which includes the XJ40, X300 an X308 cars. I've found a breakers who'll sell me the complete subframes from a 3.2 X308. This gives me a diff with a ratio of 3.27:1. Coupled with the gearbox I'm using this will give a theoretical top speed of around 180mph... and the engine should put out enough power to reach that theoretical limit.... theoretically So, next job is to collect the suspension parts, strip them down, clean them up, rebush, replace anything worn and paint them, ready to attach to the chassis when it turns up... Well, actually the next job is to sort the garage out so I have room to do all this...

29-01-2013, 22:06	#15
Zirax Goes up to 11! Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 4,577	Nice I would love to do something like this but I would never get the time.

30-01-2013, 11:20	#16
volospian Vodka Martini Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 786	I did a quick spot of research and double checking yesterday, mainly getting prices for replacement bearings and ball joints, and it's a good job I did. While Jaguar left the rear end of the X308 alone (well, pretty much, at least they didn't change any of the bits I need) they totally redesigned the front end. The guys at AK just assumed things were the same, or near enough, across the range, which is fair enough assumption as they have probably not had anybody bother using X308 parts yet as they're rarer than XJ40/X300 parts... but they most certainly are not the same. Different wishbones, uprights, bearings.. it's pretty much all changed. Anyway, I spoke to the scrappy who said it was no bother to swap the front suspension I was intending to buy with a set off an X300, while still buying the X308 rear end for that nice 3.27:1 diff. No difference in price so I'm a happy bunny. Still, it's a good job I get excited about these things and started sourcing parts before I bought the goods or I'd never have discovered the difference until I had the parts back in my garage!

30-01-2013, 21:20	#17
Zirax Goes up to 11! Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 4,577	Very close call on an expensive mistake there

31-01-2013, 09:26	#18
volospian Vodka Martini Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 786	Yeah. I'm a little annoyed at some of the info available for this build. I don't mean the parts list from AK. They state that you need the parts from a certain set of cars. XJ40 suspension, E34 Steering column, Polo MkII heater, Jag XJS handbrake, Rover 25 brake servo/cylinder and so on. The list is not the issue, the issue is "what if I can't find one?" Some of those parts are now passing into either extinction, or classic vehicles in their own right. People don't scrap XJ40's now, they restore them instead... Same with the "classic" 5 series, XJS and even Polo MkII, to some degree. And because of that, parts are silly expensive (well, the heater and servo wasn't too bad, but...). Nobody wants X300 suspension, but XJ40 parts are twice the price. From doing this work I've discovered that the X300 front end can be used, the back end of anything up to X308 can be used. The polo MkIII looks to have the same heater unit as the MkII, a whole host of rovers use the same servo and so on... I'm now trying to source an alternative doner for the steering column. The suggested one comes off the E28, E32 or E34 series Beemers (early 5 and 7 series). These are getting pretty rare and I'm struggling to find one at a sensible price. Surely they have been used on later cars, or there is something similar in length, diameter, fittings and splines from someone else that could be used... I'm thinking of putting together a compatability list that may help other builders source parts cheaper. I've also discovered that the PAS pump from a Rover 25 has been used and gives a good "weight" to the steering (considering the PAS pump that would have come with my engine would have been designed for a truck) also the alternator from a whole range of Rovers is a nice lightweight, compact 85Amp Bosch unit that will be ample for the Cobra and save some space/weight.

31-01-2013, 22:02	#19
Zirax Goes up to 11! Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 4,577	Its actually pointing that AK need to do a more modern redesign, especially with that part list. In the 90s yeah you could get parts cheaply! I mean early 5 series with the scene tax?? Come on

05-02-2013, 15:53	#20
volospian Vodka Martini Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 786	Yeah, to be fair it's only the steering column that's really hard to get. They do need to consider an alternative though. I have just picked one up for £127 so it's a little more than I wanted to pay, but it's not a bad price. I now have my axles at home and I'v started stripping them down. As usual I forgot to take pictures of the "before" but I'll take some on the weekend before I do any more. The rear set is stripped down to the component parts, more or less. The drive shafts are still connected to the hubs at the moment. I'll try and seperate them on the weekend. It may have been slightly easier to try this while it was all still together, but locking the other shaft and the diff nose while trying a hub puller would have been more difficult than holding the shaft in a vice, I think. At least now I can always put the carrier in the vice and whack the end of the shaft with a hammer (or rather a nut on the end of the shaft... I don't want to b0rk the shaft...) The lower wishbones are siezed into the long support bolts on both sides, so they are soaking in release agent. If that doesn't work I have some de-rust gel to apply and re-soak it all again. They'll come out in the end. I need some spring compressors to work on the front, but I have removed the calipers and disks. My next big task is to deox the calipers and see what they look like once cleaned up. Oh, and change the diff seals and clean and paint it...