Archery - Matt's Progress - Page 3

Jonny69 · 14-07-2008, 14:25

Shooting, not firing. No fire involved. Sorry to be pedantic.

Feek, about the button. The arrow sits on the arrow rest. The button is a spring loaded button on the side of the bow that steadies the arrow from the side. When you release the string the arrow flexes, it doesn't stay straight. If you had a solid side rest the arrow would fly off to one side as the arrow springs off the bow. The button takes up the deflection and you set the pressure on the button depending how much the arrow flexes and deflects. You get someone to watch the flight path because they will be able to see how much it curves off in flight and you tune your button pressure to get a straight flight.

Matblack · 16-07-2008, 13:41

Button is sorted, did it on Monday and I am now shooting at 60yds without too many issues, show a 374 National round after we set up the button which is over the 3rd class bowman score (319) but not quite up to 2nd class (436) but 60yds seems a lot more sensitive to small variations in form, I found that I was 'peeking' looking around the bow to see where the arrow went and this caused my arrows to go left. I now try to keep the bow static until I hear the arrow hit the boss and this seems to help a lot, I think I'll make a 2nd class bowman score within the next 3 sessions

There is so much potential for buying gadgets in this sport

I have decided I need a 'longrod' but there are so many to choose from; carbon ones, ones with multiple rods and ones with rubber 'doinkers'. The longrod fits on the front of the bow and helps to keep it still whilst aiming, it has other functions too like absording some of the vibration but mainly I want it to help me keep the sight on the gold

MB

Jonny69 · 17-07-2008, 11:13

Ah, I didn't realise you were shooting bare without a counterbalance. This is why your arrows are going out when you look up. You absolutely definitely need a front bar with a weight on the end of it. This is absolutely critical for shooting because it makes the bow fall forwards and down when you release and it prevents you gripping the bow. The bow should be loosely in your hand and fall forwards when you release the string, pivoting between your thumb and forefinger. You have a wrist strap to stop it falling on the floor.

Without the bar you'll be gripping hold of the bow which will make your arrows go all over the place, you'll twist the bow and you're at more risk of twanging your wrist with the string. Get one. A single aluminium one with steel weights will be fine. Backward facing side bars are useful when you get the strength up in your shoulder (the ones that go on the V bar). No need for a carbon fibre gatling gun hanging off the front of your bow

Matblack · 17-07-2008, 15:39

Yeah, I've been shooting since day one without a longrod, the order it was suggested I add acessories was button, longrod and then clicker, the clicker is last so I can develop to my full draw potential, the button because its hard to shoot over 60yds without one to iron out the spine inconsistancies resulting from releases which weren't perfect and the longrod to bring the groups down and keep the sight more stable. I do shoot open handed and let the bow jump forward after the shot but because the COG isn't in front of the handle the bow doesn't 'roll' forward after my release.

Things are coming on OK and I am pretty confident I'll get my second class bowman classification within the next couple of months and then I need to start shooting 80/100yds which I suspect will need better limbs and better arrows probably a carbon/aluminium set and keep the big alu X7s for indoors

MB

Jonny69 · 17-07-2008, 22:23

You need the stabiliser or you'll get into bad habits. It's rare I do the whole internet 'you have to do this' thing but stabilisers are a critical part of your technique and the bow must drop forward by itself and you must not grip the thing.

Clicker you can live without, I've never used it thought it's on my bow and I can shoot 520 indoors. I could shoot higher if I didn't get tired and could hold my consistency, it's as simple as that. Really wait until you're up at competition level until you try and rely on it.

Trouble with clickers is you have to be sighted up and you have to release as soon as you hear it click or you'll be varying your draw while you sight up. There's a lot of debate whether they are of any benefit or not. Most people just end up trashing all their arrows and stripping off all their fletchings which is the last thing you want to do at this stage

14-07-2008, 14:25	#21
Jonny69 Noob Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Socialist Republik of Kent Posts: 5,032	Shooting, not firing. No fire involved. Sorry to be pedantic. Feek, about the button. The arrow sits on the arrow rest. The button is a spring loaded button on the side of the bow that steadies the arrow from the side. When you release the string the arrow flexes, it doesn't stay straight. If you had a solid side rest the arrow would fly off to one side as the arrow springs off the bow. The button takes up the deflection and you set the pressure on the button depending how much the arrow flexes and deflects. You get someone to watch the flight path because they will be able to see how much it curves off in flight and you tune your button pressure to get a straight flight. __________________

16-07-2008, 13:41	#22
Matblack Baby Bore Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Svalbard Posts: 9,770	Button is sorted, did it on Monday and I am now shooting at 60yds without too many issues, show a 374 National round after we set up the button which is over the 3rd class bowman score (319) but not quite up to 2nd class (436) but 60yds seems a lot more sensitive to small variations in form, I found that I was 'peeking' looking around the bow to see where the arrow went and this caused my arrows to go left. I now try to keep the bow static until I hear the arrow hit the boss and this seems to help a lot, I think I'll make a 2nd class bowman score within the next 3 sessions There is so much potential for buying gadgets in this sport I have decided I need a 'longrod' but there are so many to choose from; carbon ones, ones with multiple rods and ones with rubber 'doinkers'. The longrod fits on the front of the bow and helps to keep it still whilst aiming, it has other functions too like absording some of the vibration but mainly I want it to help me keep the sight on the gold MB __________________ "we had roots that grew towards each other underground, and when all the pretty blossom had fallen from our branches we found that we were one tree and not two"

17-07-2008, 11:13	#23
Jonny69 Noob Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Socialist Republik of Kent Posts: 5,032	Ah, I didn't realise you were shooting bare without a counterbalance. This is why your arrows are going out when you look up. You absolutely definitely need a front bar with a weight on the end of it. This is absolutely critical for shooting because it makes the bow fall forwards and down when you release and it prevents you gripping the bow. The bow should be loosely in your hand and fall forwards when you release the string, pivoting between your thumb and forefinger. You have a wrist strap to stop it falling on the floor. Without the bar you'll be gripping hold of the bow which will make your arrows go all over the place, you'll twist the bow and you're at more risk of twanging your wrist with the string. Get one. A single aluminium one with steel weights will be fine. Backward facing side bars are useful when you get the strength up in your shoulder (the ones that go on the V bar). No need for a carbon fibre gatling gun hanging off the front of your bow __________________ Last edited by Jonny69; 17-07-2008 at 11:17.

17-07-2008, 15:39	#24
Matblack Baby Bore Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Svalbard Posts: 9,770	Yeah, I've been shooting since day one without a longrod, the order it was suggested I add acessories was button, longrod and then clicker, the clicker is last so I can develop to my full draw potential, the button because its hard to shoot over 60yds without one to iron out the spine inconsistancies resulting from releases which weren't perfect and the longrod to bring the groups down and keep the sight more stable. I do shoot open handed and let the bow jump forward after the shot but because the COG isn't in front of the handle the bow doesn't 'roll' forward after my release. Things are coming on OK and I am pretty confident I'll get my second class bowman classification within the next couple of months and then I need to start shooting 80/100yds which I suspect will need better limbs and better arrows probably a carbon/aluminium set and keep the big alu X7s for indoors MB __________________ "we had roots that grew towards each other underground, and when all the pretty blossom had fallen from our branches we found that we were one tree and not two"

17-07-2008, 22:23	#25
Jonny69 Noob Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Socialist Republik of Kent Posts: 5,032	You need the stabiliser or you'll get into bad habits. It's rare I do the whole internet 'you have to do this' thing but stabilisers are a critical part of your technique and the bow must drop forward by itself and you must not grip the thing. Clicker you can live without, I've never used it thought it's on my bow and I can shoot 520 indoors. I could shoot higher if I didn't get tired and could hold my consistency, it's as simple as that. Really wait until you're up at competition level until you try and rely on it. Trouble with clickers is you have to be sighted up and you have to release as soon as you hear it click or you'll be varying your draw while you sight up. There's a lot of debate whether they are of any benefit or not. Most people just end up trashing all their arrows and stripping off all their fletchings which is the last thing you want to do at this stage __________________