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Old 17-08-2011, 08:24   #51
volospian
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Yeah, that's the basic idea. I need to find out where's best to support the rear end, and which part of the car is best to lift from. I'm not convinced about lifting via the windows. It's a heavy old body. I can lift it myself a bit from the front light recesses, so I may look at a frame of some description to lift it from the front. Then I'll rest it on a trestle running through the front wheel arches area while I shift the crane from the front and roll the chassis out... I think...
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Old 19-08-2011, 14:46   #52
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As for lifting points, take the doors off the hinges and lift from the hinges.

Either that or take the wheels off and strap around the hubs with a spreader bar to keep the straps off the fenders.
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Old 22-08-2011, 08:26   #53
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Lifting from the hinges may work...

Can't lift from the hubs as I need the body to come away from the chassis...
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Old 25-08-2011, 01:34   #54
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Yup, definitely lift from the hinges. Run a 3rd lifting strap to the boot latch or the bonnet latch (whichever would be on the heavier end).

All of those points would be able to support the full weight of the body all by themselves, let alone distributed between three of them.
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Old 03-09-2011, 17:34   #55
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Well, brute force and ignorance is always the way forward. I hassled a couple of mates to lend some muscle and we just lifted the damn thing off with the aid of a few piece of wood, some old scaffold pipe and some axle stands.

Hmmm, the front lifts up...


Don't try this at home....



It's steel, Jim, but not as we know it...


Job well done, now, where's the beer?



The question now is... how much is salvagable and how much needs replacing. You can probably see the gaping holes in the front outriggers, and the fact that the passenger side outrigger has actually snapped in two. I'm aiming to strip the suspension off in a week or two and then get the chassis blasted, to see just how knackered it actually is.
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:55   #56
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That's superb mate, Tell me you are painting it Bright Red when it's finished
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Old 11-09-2011, 19:50   #57
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Just bought a spare chassis from a well known auction site. It also needs work, but not as much as mine does....
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Old 27-10-2011, 16:58   #58
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A few more updates...

After having a closer look at the chassis, it seems the rot is terminal...


Good job I bought a replacement chassis then...



So, it's time to start taking things off. The gearbox came off pretty easily...


The rear axle was a bit harder, but came off after a long struggle...


Leaving the old chassis looking a little like this...


Just need to remove the front suspension parts now and I can pretty much scrap what's left...
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Old 16-12-2011, 09:11   #59
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Quick update, no pics...

The old chassis has now been stripped of useful parts and lies folornly on the drive like the stripped carcass of a dead animal. I just need to sort out how the hell to get it all to the scrappy. I need to dump the old oil from the sump, but my old oil can is full and the local tip is still closed for refitting (should have been open a month ago. But then it's a government project, so it'll probably run on for another 2 years and then be scrapped altogether at a cost of eleventy billion pounds).

The new chassis went off to the blasting company yesterday. They took a door with them to see how well the 40+ year old gel coat will stand soda blasting. If all is good, I'll have them strip the body back for me in the new year.

Now comes the expensive part of rebuilding everything with new bits. I've got a set of front wheel bearings and some top ball joints already, but I want new brake discs and calipers (or I may send the old calipers to Bigg Red for refurb... or I may buy a wilwood kit... not sure which I'd prefer atm) new trunnions (old ones siezed solid), new bushes (old ones buggered beyond belief), new top fulcrums (old ones rusty and so worn they look like sausages rather than hinges) and, of course, new shocks and springs.. oh, and new drop links and brake hoses.... and probably other stuff too...

And that's just the front suspension parts... lol. I have the diff to be refurbed yet, although that's fairly simple to refit once it has been sorted. A set of bushes for the trailing arms and watts link, new shocks and springs and some new bolts should do that, then it's fitting the RV8 and 'box and on to the body...
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Old 19-12-2011, 16:33   #60
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I'd take a 9" to the chassis. Chop it up into bits that will fit in the boot and go and weigh it in.
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