Clio Battery/Alternator strife

Jingo · 28-03-2009, 12:38

Hello to the mechanically and motor-minds of the motors sub-forum, this is a strange new place for me but I recognise the faces and hope somebody might be able to shed some light on this issue...

My Girlfriend's 1999 Renault Clio 1.4 has decided to die, yesterday the battery light was on continuously and towards the end of our trip the radio cut out/wipers wouldn't come on/lights were dim etc.

The car will not start this morning with the usual flat battery sound, something which brief research suggests is due to the alternator.

This seems like a reasonable explaination as to why the car often gets a flat battery and requires jump starting if it's not been used very much; I thought the battery might just need replacing but that isn't something mentioned when the light is on continuously.

Bar the basics, I'm not particularly experienced with the mechanics of cars and wouldn't be able to even find the alternator, let alone know where to start with checking if it's working etc.

I'm sure we could arrange for a jump start from a friend/relative to get it to a garage/halfords but I don't wish to be ripped off due to my lack of experience in this field...

All thoughts and comments on this would be greatly appreciated boys & girls

Cheers,

Darrin · 30-03-2009, 03:25

That is an alternator.

The method for swapping it out varies by vehicle in small ways, but this is the general way :

First off, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Generally requires a 13mm or 1/2" spanner.

On the back side of the alternator you'll see a plastic plug with either two or three wires clipped into the chassis of the alternator. You'll also see a larger wire (most often red in color) that terminates on a nut and bolt that protrudes straight out the back. Find the release clip on the plastic clip and unplug it. The nut on the other wire will require either a 7mm, 8mm or 10mm box end spanner to remove. Be sure to write down the order the washers go back on when you remove the wire and put the nut back on.

In the picture above I've drawn two red arrows pointing at the mounting bolts for the alternator. The one on the left in the picture above is a pivot point, while the one on the right is a "slider". Both of these bolts will require either a 13mm, 14mm or 15mm spanner to undo. The yellow arrow is pointing to a tensioner. Some use this method, some don't. You'll have to investigate whether yours does or not. Hopefully it doesn't at it inserts a multitude of complexity to the task. Therefor I will only continue with explaining the procedure for one without a tensioner.

If you slack the bolt/nut at the pivot point, then then loosen and remove the slider, the alternator will still be supported, but able to wobble around so you can get the belt off the pulley. Then you can remove the pivot bolt while holding the alternator with the other hand. As soon as the pivot bolt is out the only thing keeping the alternator in the engine compartment is gravity.

Replace with a new alternator in the reverse procedure with the exception of when you go to tighten the slider bolt, you'll need something (big prybar) to jamb in between the alternator and the engine to tighten up the slack in the belt. It's going to take some nuts to get it tight enough. This is where a tensioner is advantageous, but it makes things much more complex for changing the alternator.

Once you've got everything back together, fire the engine up and turn on every electrical thing you can. Heater blower, headlamps on high beam, wipers, A/C, etc. Draw as much as you can. If the belt starts to squeal, you need to tighten the alternator up with the prybar some more.

As for cost? Shop around. I've spent as little as $25 for my Chevy truck alternator all the way up to $200 for a friend's Toyota Camry. And for the most part a rebuilt or reman is going to do you just as well as a new one. Anything under 65 amps isn't going to make a hill of beans difference between new and reman.

Jingo · 30-03-2009, 13:13

Thanks for your time and advice Darrin - A friend who's a bit of a 'self-made' mechanic came and had a nosey at it and cleaned all the contact points to see if that made a difference but no luck.

I had a quote from a garage to get the required part and fixing but it came back totalling about ~£150-175.

Something that seems quite steep considering how very broke we are at present. Mechanic-chum said he would happily do the fixing work for us and should be able to source a part for about £20-50 from a salvage yard and will fit it for us for the price of a pint

Just got to try and source a part/ hope he has better luck over his way

Jingo · 02-04-2009, 09:32

Sorted now \o/

Alternator from salvage yard = £15.
Friend who knows his stuff under the bonnet who refused to take payment = £0.
Insistent petrol/runaround moneys = £25.

She's Alive!!!

Haly · 02-04-2009, 10:53

Bargain

Darrin · 02-04-2009, 21:58

Congrats!!

28-03-2009, 12:38	#1
Jingo Smother me in chocolate and eat flapjacks with it! Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: North Somerset Posts: 1,854	Clio Battery/Alternator strife Hello to the mechanically and motor-minds of the motors sub-forum, this is a strange new place for me but I recognise the faces and hope somebody might be able to shed some light on this issue... My Girlfriend's 1999 Renault Clio 1.4 has decided to die, yesterday the battery light was on continuously and towards the end of our trip the radio cut out/wipers wouldn't come on/lights were dim etc. The car will not start this morning with the usual flat battery sound, something which brief research suggests is due to the alternator. This seems like a reasonable explaination as to why the car often gets a flat battery and requires jump starting if it's not been used very much; I thought the battery might just need replacing but that isn't something mentioned when the light is on continuously. Bar the basics, I'm not particularly experienced with the mechanics of cars and wouldn't be able to even find the alternator, let alone know where to start with checking if it's working etc. I'm sure we could arrange for a jump start from a friend/relative to get it to a garage/halfords but I don't wish to be ripped off due to my lack of experience in this field... All thoughts and comments on this would be greatly appreciated boys & girls Cheers, __________________

30-03-2009, 03:25	#2
Darrin Dirteh Kitteh Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Hiding out in Mormon Country Posts: 1,629	That is an alternator. The method for swapping it out varies by vehicle in small ways, but this is the general way : First off, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Generally requires a 13mm or 1/2" spanner. On the back side of the alternator you'll see a plastic plug with either two or three wires clipped into the chassis of the alternator. You'll also see a larger wire (most often red in color) that terminates on a nut and bolt that protrudes straight out the back. Find the release clip on the plastic clip and unplug it. The nut on the other wire will require either a 7mm, 8mm or 10mm box end spanner to remove. Be sure to write down the order the washers go back on when you remove the wire and put the nut back on. In the picture above I've drawn two red arrows pointing at the mounting bolts for the alternator. The one on the left in the picture above is a pivot point, while the one on the right is a "slider". Both of these bolts will require either a 13mm, 14mm or 15mm spanner to undo. The yellow arrow is pointing to a tensioner. Some use this method, some don't. You'll have to investigate whether yours does or not. Hopefully it doesn't at it inserts a multitude of complexity to the task. Therefor I will only continue with explaining the procedure for one without a tensioner. If you slack the bolt/nut at the pivot point, then then loosen and remove the slider, the alternator will still be supported, but able to wobble around so you can get the belt off the pulley. Then you can remove the pivot bolt while holding the alternator with the other hand. As soon as the pivot bolt is out the only thing keeping the alternator in the engine compartment is gravity. Replace with a new alternator in the reverse procedure with the exception of when you go to tighten the slider bolt, you'll need something (big prybar) to jamb in between the alternator and the engine to tighten up the slack in the belt. It's going to take some nuts to get it tight enough. This is where a tensioner is advantageous, but it makes things much more complex for changing the alternator. Once you've got everything back together, fire the engine up and turn on every electrical thing you can. Heater blower, headlamps on high beam, wipers, A/C, etc. Draw as much as you can. If the belt starts to squeal, you need to tighten the alternator up with the prybar some more. As for cost? Shop around. I've spent as little as $25 for my Chevy truck alternator all the way up to $200 for a friend's Toyota Camry. And for the most part a rebuilt or reman is going to do you just as well as a new one. Anything under 65 amps isn't going to make a hill of beans difference between new and reman. __________________ A bullet may have your name on it, but shrapnel is addressed "to whom it may concern".

30-03-2009, 13:13	#3
Jingo Smother me in chocolate and eat flapjacks with it! Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: North Somerset Posts: 1,854	Thanks for your time and advice Darrin - A friend who's a bit of a 'self-made' mechanic came and had a nosey at it and cleaned all the contact points to see if that made a difference but no luck. I had a quote from a garage to get the required part and fixing but it came back totalling about ~£150-175. Something that seems quite steep considering how very broke we are at present. Mechanic-chum said he would happily do the fixing work for us and should be able to source a part for about £20-50 from a salvage yard and will fit it for us for the price of a pint Just got to try and source a part/ hope he has better luck over his way __________________

02-04-2009, 09:32	#4
Jingo Smother me in chocolate and eat flapjacks with it! Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: North Somerset Posts: 1,854	Sorted now \o/ Alternator from salvage yard = £15. Friend who knows his stuff under the bonnet who refused to take payment = £0. Insistent petrol/runaround moneys = £25. She's Alive!!! __________________

02-04-2009, 10:53	#5
Haly Do you want to hide in my box? Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 14,941	Bargain __________________ Halycopter

02-04-2009, 21:58	#6
Darrin Dirteh Kitteh Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Hiding out in Mormon Country Posts: 1,629	Congrats!! __________________ A bullet may have your name on it, but shrapnel is addressed "to whom it may concern".