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Old 18-02-2009, 10:14   #1
Wryel
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Default Climbing recovery

I've come to realise if I want to get any better at climbing I'm going to need to plan my recovery better. I try and get a decent amount of complex carbs beforehand and do a lot of stretches before and after but I'm sure I could do more. I understand I should consume carb/protein in the ratio of about 4:1 after climbing to help recovery which is about what you find in a lot of sports drinks/shakes. However a lot of these seem to be aimed at body builders etc and I don't want to build up an unnecessary level of muscle. What would you recommend?
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Old 18-02-2009, 10:36   #2
LeperousDust
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I'm not mad into it, but after a big climbing/mountain biking sesh i generally make sure i have some tuna pasta, scores high on the card/protein and good for you mix. Throw some sweetcorn and pesto in there and bobs whoever you want; a recovery meal whipped up in the time it takes to boil pasta.

I don't think its all just aimed at body building, i assume you need to eat a fair amount more protein and working out solely on muscle groups to start actually bulking, but i'm not right up on it all, Will'll be over in a bit

Also i'd stay away from he recovery drinks they just seem overpriced tat compared to making your own stuff quite easily, even when you're knackered.
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Old 18-02-2009, 10:37   #3
cleanbluesky
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Strength and size don't necessarily go hand in hand, muscle weight carries itself in most circumstances. Also 'Recovery' isn't just about what you eat immediately after workout.

Climbing is largely about skill, there may be move that you need strength to do although the level of skill required is usually much more detrimental than the muscular improvements.

What grade do you climb and where and how often do you climb? Also, how tall are you and what do you weigh? What do you have problems with?
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Old 18-02-2009, 10:40   #4
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Protein is required for fixing/healing as well as building muscle. Hypertrophy isn't that easy to achieve and climbing I doubt you'd achieve that much as it would me more high-tone/tensile (tendons and twitch muscles) muscle rather than low tensile (big muscle fibres/groups.)

For recovery there are lots of things, but plenty of water and some amino acid mixture would be good for you with some protein intake (it doesnt' have to be supplement you can get it from your diet).

What I get to help with joints, muscle recovery and general well being is a mixture of proteins and essential amino acids and lots of fish oils. I use a lot of natural herb extracts for their anti-cortisol and anti catabolic effects but they're quite tough to get hold of and aren't particularly nice, but I'm a big fan of these sort of remedies as they work for me but some people find they don't do much for them.
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Old 18-02-2009, 10:49   #5
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Protein is required for fixing/healing as well as building muscle. Hypertrophy isn't that easy to achieve and climbing I doubt you'd achieve that much as it would me more high-tone/tensile (tendons and twitch muscles) muscle rather than low tensile (big muscle fibres/groups.)
I was reading about the positive effects of variation in strength training routines - the idea that varied routine may be good at confusing the body into continuing CNS gains rather than lifting at 100% all the time. Given the nature of climbing, which uses random muscles in random ways, I think it is an excellent way of achieving that variation - it is to strength training what fartlek training is to running.
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Old 18-02-2009, 10:56   #6
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I'd agree with that. Your body has an amazing way of adapting itself. Doing the same movements day in day out will enable your body to recover better/faster as it'll develop a resistance for those movements. For size and strength training you do need variation. However for purely endurance training such variation isn't required. Climbing still requires strength, but the movements associated with it being bodyweight based should help - if you want to excel though doing the same routine (i.e. climbing) with a weight vest on will also aid strength/developement.
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Old 18-02-2009, 11:18   #7
Wryel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanbluesky View Post
Strength and size don't necessarily go hand in hand, muscle weight carries itself in most circumstances. Also 'Recovery' isn't just about what you eat immediately after workout.

Climbing is largely about skill, there may be move that you need strength to do although the level of skill required is usually much more detrimental than the muscular improvements.

What grade do you climb and where and how often do you climb? Also, how tall are you and what do you weigh? What do you have problems with?
I'm 5'10", about 72-73Kg and climb most 5Bs fairly easliy and have started doing 5Cs when bouldering (French scale I think) and 6a/6a+ for routes (not sure what scale that is - there are two on the labels on the climbs and its the higher of the two).

I know most of what I need to improve is technique which is why I don't want to build up any/much more muscle. I don't think there is any one particular aspect I'm better or worse at, I would like to be able to climb for longer though. I just figured if I thought about my recovery more I would get more out of my time on the wall.
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Old 18-02-2009, 13:15   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wryel View Post
I'm 5'10", about 72-73Kg and climb most 5Bs fairly easliy and have started doing 5Cs when bouldering (French scale I think) and 6a/6a+ for routes (not sure what scale that is - there are two on the labels on the climbs and its the higher of the two).
I'm about the same as you on the French scale and whilst I don't boulder it seems that your 5C in bouldering is equivalent to French 6c perhaps... (grades are oftne ambiguous).

Quote:
I know most of what I need to improve is technique which is why I don't want to build up any/much more muscle. I don't think there is any one particular aspect I'm better or worse at, I would like to be able to climb for longer though. I just figured if I thought about my recovery more I would get more out of my time on the wall.
Muscle will carry itself. I think the only bad thing about muscle is that people might skip learning technique if they are strong enough to power themselves up a climb.
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Old 18-02-2009, 13:48   #9
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Muscle will carry itself. I think the only bad thing about muscle is that people might skip learning technique if they are strong enough to power themselves up a climb.

Yep. I can tell when I've not done a climb properly, sometimes you just want to get up!
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Old 18-02-2009, 14:25   #10
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Yep. I can tell when I've not done a climb properly, sometimes you just want to get up!
I can't. I've got a long reach and good upper body strength, I tend to climb like a monkey.
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